When to bring in the plumber
- Before final layout, so drain locations and venting are realistic.
- After demolition, to check the condition of existing pipes.
- For rough-in, before insulation and drywall.
- For finish, once tile and vanity are in.
What we find in local bathrooms
Homes from the 1960s and 1970s commonly keep galvanized or first-copper supply, a cast iron stack and shower valves without pressure balancing. Some 1980s and 1990s homes have Poly-B. With the studs bare, swapping these out costs least, rather than tiling over a known weak point.
How we handle the plumbing, step by step
- We walk through the plan and confirm fixture positions and drain sizes.
- Old supply and drain lines are removed or capped as needed.
- New drains, vents and supply lines are run for each fixture.
- A pressure-balancing or thermostatic valve goes in at the depth the tile needs.
- Rough-in is pressure-tested and inspected before walls close.
- Fixtures are installed and tested once finishing is done.
What moves the bill
Moving a toilet or shower drain across a floor costs more than keeping fixtures in place. Curbless showers need careful floor work. Freestanding tubs with floor-mounted fillers involve extra supply runs. Old cast iron stacks may need replacing if they are cracked.
Worth asking
Ask what valve is going behind the shower and whether parts will be easy to source later. Ask for access to the shower valve from a closet or panel if possible. Ask how the vent will tie in.
What callers want to know
Can a bathroom be added in a basement?
Often, yes, using the existing main line or an upflush system. Our basement bathroom guide explains the options.
Should I change the shut-off valves?
Yes. New quarter-turn valves are inexpensive and much more reliable than old multi-turn ones.